Saturday, December 29, 2012

Expensive Tolls to Pisa and Expensive Waffle Cones in Florence

Our day was supposed to begin early around 5:30 so we could leave for Pisa by 6 am, but alarms failed and instead we left around 8:30. We stopped for cappuccinos and pastries at a local gas station (there is an actual live person making coffee drinks for you at these gas stations). The crema croissant I had was pretty good but I was more excited about the design of a star using chocolate powder on the top of my cappuccino more than the actual drink itself.

I also found the strawberry Haribo candy I remember buying in Switzerland when I was there nine years ago. I remembered the fluffy chewy goodness of the sugary strawberry gummy candy. I bought it, hoping my memory and taste buds would serve me well. I didn't wait long to rip into the bag and that same fluffy chewy goodness delighted my mouth.

We finally were on the road by 9 am headed southward on a four hour drive to Pisa. The highways seem to be toll roads here in Italy. You punch a button, pull the ticket, and the bar lifts to let you onto the freeway. We road on that freeway quite some time as the farmland changed into rolling hills and the Apennine Mountains. I really didn't remember this from before, but then again I did sleep a lot on the trains as I rolled through these areas. The grassy areas turned green even though the trees and much of the brush was bare and dead looking.
We stopped at a large gas station/rest stop (they have very nice rest stops here - they do remind me of travel stations in the states, but nicer) outside Bologna where I tasted some bread and meat (which tasted a whole lot like bologna). I keep seeing these soft squishy plastic pigs that have a huge hole in their mouth so that when you squeeze them they make a very realistic pig like noise. I can't help but pick one up and squeeze it every time I pass them.
We continued down the road, and I drifted to sleep on and off as we passed through tunnels and turns through the mountains. Every now and then up on the top of some hill you would see a tower or sorts or the remains of an old castle or villa. The homes all look very similar and are warmly painted in golds, oranges, or browns, or greens.
At some point we came to the end of the toll. I was quite surprised to find out it was over twenty euro (that's over $25) to use that stretch of the highway! It was a few hours drive, so a very long stretch, but makes me grateful for our free highways or our inexpensive toll roads at home!
We drove past Florence and turned toward Pisa where the land started to flatten out. I came in via train last time, so I don't know if I was able to see the big thick rock walls that surrounded the city to protect it from invaders long ago. This time I took note of that feature. We drove in past the walls and found a spot on a narrow street lined with shops and apartments along that thick rock wall. Africans and other nationalities lined the streets directing your car to a parking spots. One young man directed us to a spot clearly too small for the car so we passed and he followed us up to another spot.
As soon as we stepped out of the car we were barraged by men trying to sell us fake watches, sunglasses, purses, or any other unnecessary good. Andrew gave the young man who "helped" us park a coin. He promptly walked with us to the ticket machine and interrupted Andrew's use of the buttons to push them for him (this is all so we will give him more coins). He joined us back to the car and Andrew told him he would receive one more Euro if he made sure our car was safe and in good shape when we returned.
All the way up the street men tried to sell us good as we looked at the towering buildings of white rising out of the big open space ahead of us. The leaning tower was of course the most prominent. There were so many tourists and people stopping everywhere to take pictures. You really couldn't walk past anyone without interrupting someone's picture.

We spent a good chunk of time ourselves taking pictures and mimicking everyone else in getting a good picture of us trying to "hold up" the leaning tower of Pisa. My memory of Pisa was gleaming white buildings against the green grass and blue sunny skies. The green grass and blue sunny skies were there, but the the gleaming white looked grey and dirty in many areas. Andrew thought maybe the rainy season is why there seems to be dirt spots dripping down the sides of these amazing monuments.
We always think of the leaning tower, but there are beautiful and equally impressive buildings, in my opinion, in the cathedral and baptistry. The incredible detail on these three magnificent pieces of art could take one all year to soak in. We were able to go inside the cathedral which has this incredibly black and white design on the arches, vibrant stained glass windows and detailed artwork and statues throughout the nave.
I love looking at the outside of the cathedrals and love going into them. I think there is an awe-inspiring quality about them. There is something to be said as well for making the house of God the most beautiful building in the city. For me, I think it makes sense to give the best and most attention to that which is meant to be a place of worship for the Most High. It brings to mind the description of the Tabernacle God had the Hebrews build and carry with them on their trek to the Promise Land or the temple built by Solomon. Two places I feel reflect the holiness, awesomeness, and beauty of God the most are in nature - His artwork - or in the cathedrals. Both evoke this sense of something so much greater, grander, and awesome than you. One is man made, and while glory could be placed simply on the hands that made it, I think that glory is misplaced. It should be placed on the One who bestowed the gift of art upon those human hands who crafted such magnificent creations.
We didn't stay in Pisa too long since we were late and had still to get to Florence. We walked back to the car, where the faithful Kenyan boy was sitting, protecting the car. We gave him the promised Euro and headed out of the walls of the city to a less expensive to have lunch. We saw a little place we thought might eat at, but found out they didn't have lunch. They recommended the restaurant just down but we were apprehensive about the prices. We saw the pizza was reasonable, so we stayed.
The tables had nice linens, and the place clearly had nicer meals, but I ordered the ravioli and they ordered pizza for under ten Euro. Chris and I also decided to try the house wine - red for him, white for me - since it was only 2 euros (that is cheaper than the soda here and about the same price as water since you have to pay for bottled water if you want water with your meal). It came in a small pitcher, but realistically it was a lot of wine. We dined on the fresh baked bread and our meals and I had two small (not even a normal wine glass size) half-filled glasses of my wine.
I tried Chris' pizza but didn't like it. It's flavor reminded me of the smell of all the villages I went into in Argentina. I realize now that smell is what permeates everything because of the wood burning fires, and this was a wood fired pizza. I just didn't like it. My raviolis were good though and the place was nice, so I had no complaint (and the ladies bathroom had a real toilet, although Chris got his first experience with having no stool and instead just a porcelain foot spot on a squatty potty). I did feel that wine go to my head after such a small amount and so did Chris. I'm not sure what the alcoholic content was of it, but it must have been strong. I left half of the carafe unfinished.
I did run into that little pastry shop for some dessert and bought two more cannolis for Chris and I to eat (I love my sweets).
We left and Andrew drove us back to Florence where we arrived at sunset on this hill overlooking the city and the river. The view was quite stunning. We perused the touristy goods and waited for a bus to take us down into the city center. After a friendly man helped us try to locate the statue of David and the bus route to take, we loaded onto the bus and took it all the way to the train station. We found a tourist information place that told us the best way to get to the Academia Gallery, but warned us it was probably closed.
We walked quickly to get there, and at first Florence had no memory for me. As we came up to the Duomo, my favorite in Italy, memories flooded back of Kevin and I walking up to it at night on our way to the hotel and how it shone gloriously in the middle of the city. This time there was a Christmas tree covered in lights and fluer-de-lis and a nativity in the square with it. Down one stretch of street were lanterns hanging across and the other direction were blue stars.
We walked past the Duomo and onto the street with blue stars to reach the Academia before it closed so Chris could see Michelangelo's famous statue of David. We hustled down the streets, passed it and had to ask for directions a few times. We reached the doors that blended into the rest of the apartments of shop along the street, but we were too late and even though they closed at 6:50 and it was only 6:30, they would not let us in.
Dejected, we walked back toward the Duomo (although I wasn't so dejected because I love the Duomo) and I was able to take in more of the city. The buildings were looking more familiar and the massive cathedral was still gleaming in the cold night. We took in the nativity and the doors on the baptistry, the front of the cathedral, and the tower that shoots up into the sky.

I made them walk around the whole building. Not only is the building amazing to me, but I love the design of the facades of the buildings surrounding the Duomo. I noted all the dirt on this cathedral as well, not remembering that at all the last time I was here. Still, this building was no less impressive nine years after the first time I laid eyes on it.
Even though I am sad over the lack of leaves on the trees and the barren vines, I do love the festive holiday lights everywhere we go. This is one reason I love traveling at Christmas time. We would look down streets and it might look like it was shimmering diamond strung across because of the lights, or we were walking under stars. It is just lovely.
We walked back and Chris decided he needed some gelato (thankfully my down coat keeps me warm enough that I also liked this idea). We were looking for the place he saw on our way that he thought looked appetizing. We found it (they also made dessert waffles) and I followed suit as the boys ordered the large waffle cone in which to place our gelato. I packed mine with a chocolate chip and another chocolate with hazelnut. We went to pay when Andrew noticed the waffle cone was a ridiculous ten Euros! Yes, the realization sunk in that the three of us had just spent a total of 30 euros ($40) on gelato. When in my right mind would I spend that much on ice cream? But, it was too late, so we paid and made sure to enjoy that gelato.

We hurried back to the bus stop so we could catch the bus back up to our car. We went on a bit of a wild goose chase trying to find where to buy a bus ticket (we had ridden it on the way down without paying because you can't pay on the bus, you had to buy a ticket previous to entering the bus and then validate it on the bus. The problem was there was no clear place to actually buy the ticket). We did finally find the store on the second attempt and third street crossing and bought our tickets so we would legally be riding the bus and not risk a fine.
The bus took us back up the hill, we hopped in the car and drove to a gas station where we could fill up (the gas stations are super expensive here so Andrew uses his coupons from the base so he must get to a station before they close which can often be by 7:30 pm). I used the restroom and grabbed a toasted sandwich, since I thought I should have something more substantial than gelato in my stomach. I squeezed the plastic pig and looked at the Gangum CD in Italian.
We headed back out onto the highway where we sped home. Tomorrow's agenda should add another country onto my list as we travel into Slovenia to do some cave and castle exploration.
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