Snow in Salem

This morning was a little hard to get out of my warm bed, but it had to be done. We didn't get a really early start to Salem, but we headed out for the "T" and took it to North Station where we quickly purchased out tickets for the train. Train stations excite me. I'm not sure what it is, but I love being on trains and I love train stations. I think it's because I know I'm going somewhere and I love the relaxing ride of a train where I can look out the window and watch the countryside go by. Although, from Boston to Salem, it wasn't much countryside, it was mostly city and trains don't usually go through the nicest part of cities.

We made it to Salem in just over a half hour. The train ticket to Salem was only $5.25. Katrina and I commented how we don't think it's that inexpensive to San Diego, which is too bad. It would be so nice if Southern California would have better public transportation that was cheaper so people could use it more. I know we have the metro in LA, which I have used, but the trains up and down aren't that good of a price.

We stepped off the train and found an even chillier temperature than in Boston. Forecasts had said snow today, but so far the sky was very blue. The morning's news had shown snow in New York and that the storm was moving up but looked like it wouldn't snow until evening. We walked into town from the train station and were met by several interesting sights. The first statue that we came to was the "Bewitched" Statue from the TV show with Samatha on a broom and a moon. We both laughed at it and decided something warm to drink would be a good choice - we hadn't had breakfast yet. There was a cute cafe called Gulu Gulu so we walked in there and were met by a friendly pregnant woman. We bypassed the tables for a couch in the corner and sat down to look at the menu. So many of their coffees looked so good! I had made a decision to not do sugar, caffeine, or bread today, but I couldn't resist ordering a sugar free, decaf Creme Brulee mocha. I'm sure it wasn't that good for me but I was weak. I did order an egg sandwich without the bread. My coffee was excellent and Katrina ordered a White Raspberry Mocha that also sounded so good! We relaxed on the couch with our delectables and planned our time in Salem.

After that, we walked down the main area and into the Peabody Essex Museum. We purchased tickets (I at student price since I have my LSU ID for my masters) not only for the museum but also the Yin Yu Tang house. They gave us these audio tour guides for the house that were funny - Katrina thought they looked like 80's cell phones, I must say I see why she thought that.

I wasn't completely sure how interesting the house was going to be, but it was amazing beautiful and fascinating. It was a 200 year old house from China. First of all, I love homes with atriums, and the whole house was structured around an atrium with two ponds. The whole house was wood with this beautiful detailed lattice work. Even at the bottom of the posts there was delicate flowers carved in. The bedrooms had a amazing beds that had a curtain drawn around them so that it was like a nice private retreat. In the area that they had their ancestor worship, there was also a loudspeaker placed by the communists. Mao had ordered that it could not be taken down or turned down and China would send out announcements every day.

We walked through the Japanese art exhibit and found some really beautiful and interesting pieces in there as well. One was a really pretty blue and white fancy urinal! I would never have guessed it was a urinal. There was a cart used to carry a bride. It was beautiful but really small. It seemed more like it would be claustrophobic - almost like a jail with the slats being the only way to look out. We went around the corner and there was this enormous impressive bed with this gorgeously carved detail.

There was an American decorative arts room and the best part was this piece entitled Island Bride - it was a dress made out of shells reminiscent of Victorian times based on the idea that sailors back then would give a gift adorned with shells to their Valentine. From that room we walked into a room that had all these beautiful statues that would go on the front of the boat (I'm sure there are proper terms for these, but I don't know them). It was in this big beautiful ballroom but there was another exhibit going on where an artist had created a light show that had patterns dancing and cascading all over the walls, ceiling, and floor. It created an interesting effect - definitely fun. The docent told us that the room we were in can be seen in the reception part of the movie Bride Wars.

After that we walked through the Treasures of the Forbidden City - their current exhibit from China. Again there was some amazing artwork. There was a particular table that was exquisitely carved to look like tree limbs with delicate little flowers on it. So much of the aesthetic of the Japanese and Chinese art I find so strikingly beautiful!

We walked through some more of the American decorative arts as well as the maritime arts in our last exhibit in the museum. There is something about ships with the sails that is so graceful. I loved looking at the large models of ships that they had on display. We walked through the gift shop that had some gorgeous clothing and accessories, but certainly all out of my price range. The museum was really hot and stuffy as well, so it was a bit of a relief when we walked back into the cold air outside.

We decided to walk to the House of Seven Gables, where Nathaniel Hawthorne lived even though it was closed. We knew we could at least see the outside. Walking through the town of Salem is a little odd. It is another cute old historic town, but we passed so many psychics and witch/magic arts shops. The town definitely has a creepy feel to it. It frightens me a little to think of what types of evil may be at work there. We ducked into a coffee/tea shop for something warm to drink while we walked along the water. I had a white tea that tasted just like honeydew melon, while not a favorite, it was amazing how strong that flavor was.

There was a gorgeous ship docked called the Friendship of Salem. We stopped and took pictures. The backdrop of the blue sky with white clouds beginning to pile up was just too picturesque to pass up. After spending some time there, we continued down to the Seven Gables. Surrounding it were several older houses, again with some beautiful but weathered doors. I have definitely been obsessed with the doors this trip.

There was a candy store name Ye Olde Pepper Candies that I had to stop in. I bought some Black Jacks, which I have yet to try, but are made of the black tar molasses - at the bottom of the barrel. I guess they are even supposed to be good for you - they have iron. I'm sure that makes up for the sugar component! They also had some gibralters (peppermint and lemon) for which they are apparently famous. I decided I'd have to try them at some point and the candies would make some good gifts for back at home.

Walking back down toward the center of town we passed two houses - one that was called Home for Aged Women, and another a residence for women. I'm not really sure what they were, but I found the funny and joked that Katrina and I could retire here later on if we needed. We found the Salem Witches Museum without too much trouble which is housed in a church - a little ironic. We had 35 minutes until the next showing, so we walked down to the Salem Witch Trial Memorial. It was right next to a graveyard. At first I didn't really understand the memorial - there was snow covering much of it. Katrina then realized that each rock sticking out of the wall in a seat -like fashion actually had the names of those killed on it. We looked around until she found Ann Pudeator - the women I discovered just a month ago is my 9th great-grandmother on the Stiles side. Her granddaughter or great-grandaughter (can't remember which) married Job Stiles, my 6th or 7th great grandfather. So, I sat and had Katrina take a picture there. Katrina then found that Giles Cory had been pressed to death on her birthday, almost 300 years earlier, so we took a picture of her there. We walked back up the town to the museum and watched their interesting presentation on the trials. Inside what would have been the main sanctuary of the church they have 3-dimension scenes set up around the walls and using lights and recordings tell the story of the witch trials. After that exhibit, a very well-spoken young man took us through a look at witches and how they have evolved throughout the centuries. It was an interesting look, historically, and touched on the McCarthyism of the 1950's as well.

I asked for a recommendation for dinner and they sent us to The Old Spot - an English pub, very cozy on the inside with orange walls, dark wooden tables, and a couch like seat lining all the walls. A black ceiling with some ornate decorative stars hanging and candle light glowing from each table made it the perfect ambience for a delicious pub dinner while the snow began to gently fall outside. I ordered a meat pie very similar to Shepherd's Pie (which I love) and it was so good - Guinness flavored beef and lamb with onion, corn, and mashed potatoes...so delicious! I have to say I have eaten very well here in Boston. The food has been phenomenal. Luckily we are walking so much that hopefully I won't have gained much weight when I return home.

We walked back through the quaint spooky little town lit up with white lights in their trees and snow softly falling to the train station where the train was just arriving to take us back to Boston. We relaxed as it carried us toward Boston, where a dusting of snow had already fallen. As we walked out of the North Station, we saw so many people entering - and realized that there was a Celtics game and that the train station was under the Boston Garden. We decided to stop at the North End and visit the Italian bakery for some dessert (although I was good and bought none since I am avoiding sugar). We walked slowly back up the main street where so many elegant and romantic restaurants line the block. I think that must be the most romantic street of restaurants anywhere! Each restaurant was exquisitely decorated, many with tables covered in white linens and Italian style murals covering the walls with Christmas decor and white lights inviting each passerby to stop in.

We crossed over and passed Blackstone Block where the old pubs were. Friday night is definitely the night to go out here in Boston. All the restaurants and pubs were filled with people. We stopped in Faneuil Hall Marketplace and did some shopping. I walked in this one store with gorgeous romantic Victorian influenced clothing and jewelry. As beautiful as it was, most of the clothing was well over $200 per piece. Needless to say, I bought nothing there, just admired. I found a Christmas store and bought two ornaments. One is a tall green boot ornament (since I have an addiction to boots) and the other was a doorway much like I've been obsessed with while here and had them write Boston 2011 on it. I found a cute little butterfly hair barrette that had smaller butterflies cascading down and had to purchase it for some special occasion.

The marketplace is so pretty at night -they too had white lights all around the trunks and tree limbs as well as the buildings outlined in lights. A tall steeple towered above that is lit. Big cities such as this are almost prettier at night than in the day. We stopped in at Starbucks (which are everywhere) to get something hot for the rest of our walk back to the hotel. We passed another outdoor market and my mouth watered for the plump blueberries but I knew I couldn't finish them and it would be too hard to take with me tomorrow! The snow stopped falling and the ground was more a thin layer of slush than anything else.

We returned for the last night at our hotel and asked our concierge about getting to the airport tomorrow for our flight out. We are hoping that the weather will not delay our flight, but so far, the snow has been very light. I think there is supposed to be more tomorrow.

Once in our room, I went to sit on the bed, and rip! I tore a hole in my jeans! I'm not quite sure why, apparently I had rubbed them enough while walking that I weakened it. Glad it was the last night we were there and it was when I got back to my room! I guess these jeans will be staying in Boston. We relaxed in the hotel watching the end of the Wedding Planner, and then what came on? Bride Wars. We had to watch for our ballroom, but we think it was the beginning scene we missed. There was also some sort of motorcade that drove by our window with the sirens going off - we aren't quite sure what important person was in it!

I am sad this is my last night in Boston. I really love this pretty city. I think I need to return for the late spring season as well as the fall season sometime!